I'm sitting in a beautiful and of course very old, as are most things here, stone hostel about 200m away from the 'Old City' part in Jerusalem.
I love the Old City area, it's a labrinyth of ancient white stone with everything you hope to see in Jerusalem in one place: amazing historical sites, fantastic markets, and of course great cafes. It's completely walled in by huge crusade style architecture and is divided into four quarters: Muslim, Armenian, Christian and Jewish, each as you can imagine, with their own unique character on offer.
The markets are brimming with gorgeous fabrics, glass works, ceramics, colourful stone beads and handcrafted jewelery to spices, teas, dried fruits and arabic sweets (my favourite is by far rose and pistachio...mmm). It's all so tempting but sadly apart from the cafes, too pricy for me and for that matter not the sort of thing to squash in our packs for the next 9 months to get home, so ba humbug!
We have however bought a frankincense burner, arabic coffee and pot and a sheesha (hookah) pipe so we can continue the arabic lifestyle down the line. Here's hoping we can get it all through customs... Sheesha was always predicted to be an indulgence for us in this part of the world which today we had in the Muslim Quarter with the perfect partner - mint tea. Quite the scene, being the only woman sitting amongst robed men puffing away, eyebrows raised and a little boy giggled.
Jerusalem is holy to three major religions; Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. It's the holiest city in Judais
m and the spiritual center of the Jewish people since the 10th century BCE. Some of the holy sites in the Old City are: the Temple of the Mount (where the Jews believe Adam and the world for that matter was created) and the West Wall (the Western Wall is venerated as the sole remnant of the 1st Holy Temple and a place of pilgrimage for Jews, as it's the closest permitted accessible site to the holiest spot in Judaism), the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, (where Jesus is said to have been killed and buried) - we had no idea of this when we were in there, bad uneducated tourist! will go back today to take it in, and the Dome of the Rock (where the Muslims believe Muhammad ascended to God) which is absolutely beautiful and of course I took copiuos photos.
Needless to say its pretty amazing seeing these sights. I couldnt help but think of how many other people would love to see them as it would mean so much more to them than they do to us little atheists, however the history, the art and amazing architecture was pretty moving. I often find myself watching the pilgrims as much as the sights because they're so swept up in it. I find it amazing that they believe in it so passionately when the other religions and sights and contradictory tales are so nearby. Thats just me. Oh to be so one sided - life would be so simple.
Given this history, there's no wonder there is so much conflict here. Yesterday as you probably read, a Palestinian charged a bulldozer down a busy street close to where I sit now on a rampage, killing three Israelis and injuring over 40 people. I was surprised by the Prime Ministers response to this which was; "I think we need to be tougher in some of the means we use against perpetrators of terror. If we have to destroy houses, then we must do so, and if we have to stop their social benefits, then we must do so. There cannot be a case where they massacre us and at the same time they get all the privileges that our society provides". An interesting response when the bulldozer attacker was shot dead on the spot, so he would only be punishing the family by a cruel and clearly unfair form of collective punishment, and is dangerously teetering on the edge with that statement of speaking about the Palestinians as a whole not the family?! Argh. I dont know what the answers are here but that's an example of the chaos of both the actions and reasoning underlying this complex, beautiful, and ancient waring area.
It's definately a bizzare feeling when we stop and think about where we are and what does happen on these streets but I can honestly say we feel safe. I saw that bulldozer article, see huge tanks being transported by night, see gun towers and the gun toting teenage soldiers, but I also see a country striving for the normality of daily life without conflict, trying to find a way ahead on a person to person level.
On a completely different and cherrier note, I can't believe it has been less than 3 months since we left NZ. It feels like so long ago. I'm already having fantasies about catching up with all of you, holidays around NZ, a flat white from Fidel's or a Chargrilled Pineapple Caipirinha from the Matterhorn on my return!! Way ahead of myself there. Come on Emma, you still have the motherland of Caipirinha's to go - Brazil.... let alone half the world.
Happy Birthday (Month) BRETT!, I am desperatly looking for a cool milestone bday present for you but they are all so holy and biased in that way that I've had no luck yet... it's like searching for the holy grail...well we are going to Petra on Sunday so I'll see if Indy left it there. That'd be a sweet present eh? I'll try xx
I love the Old City area, it's a labrinyth of ancient white stone with everything you hope to see in Jerusalem in one place: amazing historical sites, fantastic markets, and of course great cafes. It's completely walled in by huge crusade style architecture and is divided into four quarters: Muslim, Armenian, Christian and Jewish, each as you can imagine, with their own unique character on offer.
The markets are brimming with gorgeous fabrics, glass works, ceramics, colourful stone beads and handcrafted jewelery to spices, teas, dried fruits and arabic sweets (my favourite is by far rose and pistachio...mmm). It's all so tempting but sadly apart from the cafes, too pricy for me and for that matter not the sort of thing to squash in our packs for the next 9 months to get home, so ba humbug!
We have however bought a frankincense burner, arabic coffee and pot and a sheesha (hookah) pipe so we can continue the arabic lifestyle down the line. Here's hoping we can get it all through customs... Sheesha was always predicted to be an indulgence for us in this part of the world which today we had in the Muslim Quarter with the perfect partner - mint tea. Quite the scene, being the only woman sitting amongst robed men puffing away, eyebrows raised and a little boy giggled.
Jerusalem is holy to three major religions; Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. It's the holiest city in Judais
m and the spiritual center of the Jewish people since the 10th century BCE. Some of the holy sites in the Old City are: the Temple of the Mount (where the Jews believe Adam and the world for that matter was created) and the West Wall (the Western Wall is venerated as the sole remnant of the 1st Holy Temple and a place of pilgrimage for Jews, as it's the closest permitted accessible site to the holiest spot in Judaism), the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, (where Jesus is said to have been killed and buried) - we had no idea of this when we were in there, bad uneducated tourist! will go back today to take it in, and the Dome of the Rock (where the Muslims believe Muhammad ascended to God) which is absolutely beautiful and of course I took copiuos photos.Needless to say its pretty amazing seeing these sights. I couldnt help but think of how many other people would love to see them as it would mean so much more to them than they do to us little atheists, however the history, the art and amazing architecture was pretty moving. I often find myself watching the pilgrims as much as the sights because they're so swept up in it. I find it amazing that they believe in it so passionately when the other religions and sights and contradictory tales are so nearby. Thats just me. Oh to be so one sided - life would be so simple.
Given this history, there's no wonder there is so much conflict here. Yesterday as you probably read, a Palestinian charged a bulldozer down a busy street close to where I sit now on a rampage, killing three Israelis and injuring over 40 people. I was surprised by the Prime Ministers response to this which was; "I think we need to be tougher in some of the means we use against perpetrators of terror. If we have to destroy houses, then we must do so, and if we have to stop their social benefits, then we must do so. There cannot be a case where they massacre us and at the same time they get all the privileges that our society provides". An interesting response when the bulldozer attacker was shot dead on the spot, so he would only be punishing the family by a cruel and clearly unfair form of collective punishment, and is dangerously teetering on the edge with that statement of speaking about the Palestinians as a whole not the family?! Argh. I dont know what the answers are here but that's an example of the chaos of both the actions and reasoning underlying this complex, beautiful, and ancient waring area.
It's definately a bizzare feeling when we stop and think about where we are and what does happen on these streets but I can honestly say we feel safe. I saw that bulldozer article, see huge tanks being transported by night, see gun towers and the gun toting teenage soldiers, but I also see a country striving for the normality of daily life without conflict, trying to find a way ahead on a person to person level.
On a completely different and cherrier note, I can't believe it has been less than 3 months since we left NZ. It feels like so long ago. I'm already having fantasies about catching up with all of you, holidays around NZ, a flat white from Fidel's or a Chargrilled Pineapple Caipirinha from the Matterhorn on my return!! Way ahead of myself there. Come on Emma, you still have the motherland of Caipirinha's to go - Brazil.... let alone half the world.
Happy Birthday (Month) BRETT!, I am desperatly looking for a cool milestone bday present for you but they are all so holy and biased in that way that I've had no luck yet... it's like searching for the holy grail...well we are going to Petra on Sunday so I'll see if Indy left it there. That'd be a sweet present eh? I'll try xx
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