doesn't that sound nice! and it was, Chiang Mai oh my, it was nice.
We did a two day, one night tramp. I'm determined to call 'tramp' to the confusion of the fellow Canadian 'trekkers', staying true to my bushwhacking kiwi roots. So there
In total we trekked, damn, tramped, for a good 5 hours in total,visited two villages, white water rafted, watched some evil nasty bugs burn in our candle and then rode an elephant and bamboo rafted.
It began with the tramp over a series of really steep hills to the first village of about 200 or so people of which we saw about ten. It was very simple with raised, thatched houses, no power, no running water, surrounded by the scars of fire stick farming and a few coffee fields. Chickens, dogs and kids (yes what a strange combo) everywhere. Had a cup of green tea and sheltered from the heat for an hour or so laughing with the kids who were all vying for our attention.
We continued further in over some steeper hills, exposed to the sun throughout as the bush is not the lush jungle I'd imagined but more like beech mixed with frangipani trees and giant bamboo. Super different to NZ forest. We made it to the village we stayed at overnight later that day - that of the 'Long Neck' tribe.
Aptly named, the Long Neck Tribe are the stunning people we've all seen on TV where women lengthen their necks and legs by way of 3/5/7 gold bands. They wear beautiful bright colours and make stunning shawls, bedspreads, cushion covers and anything else they hope you'll buy. There were about 6 women and one stunning little girl no older than 7 who were long necked.
As with as many local tribes in Thailand, and probably around the world now, they subsist largely on the tourist dollar for their crafts. It's disheartening as you go in imagining you'll have this close experience of hanging out with the locals, maybe sharing a drink (maybe poppy tea like Holly and Jas did on the same trip...damn it we didnt have this offer) or just sitting around the fire together. But in fact it was another mini craft market and the opportunity to take some photos of them, and rightly so, after a few hours they pop off to their private lives after they close up their stands. This bearing in mind their perspective that they've just come home from a day of selling craft at a local market to more tourists waiting in their village with cameras and no intention of shopping.
They were absolutely fine with photos but i only snapped off a few feeling strangely sick with embarrassment as they stared down the lens, as I was taking their photo like i would a beautiful temple or flower, not as a person that i know. i need to ponder this one.
The other thing that sat weird with me was the stark contrast of their stunning adornments and pride they took in their personal appearance verses the stark, dishevelled state of the village. There is firestick remenants everwhere, sick dogs (old and young cute pups) covered in scabies, slimy water streaming from the toilets, rubbish scattered around. The latter largely due to the tourist visits i imagine.
Anyway, it was an experience, and we had a great time in all hearing everyone elses stories around the fire, watching the fire bugs fly buy and the scary gianty flying ants getting stuck in the candel wax and melting away. The white water rafting was so much fun, and Andy was the El Capitano of our bamboo raft with the guide instead paddling behind the raft trying to tip us gals out when we were unawares. geez
I have a plethora of photos but the camera is not on hand so will try to get some up in the next few days.
One more day here then overnighting to BKK for a few days before we will be in the hands of one Miss Rachael Lowe! Can't wait!
check out the photos here!!!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=34628&l=1e087&id=694561720
over and out
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3 comments:
Yay, you set up a blog! What amazing tales of your travels you do tell. I never knew you were such a writer although I should have guessed. Sounds like you're having some awesome adventures,
can't wait to read about the rest of them :)
Greatness. I believe you should secretly consider collecting this blog up into a novel when you return. Say hi to Andy.
hmmm yes you've experienced a strange phenomenon that also does not sit well with me... that of a so-called 'eco-tourist' village... its been reported recently in regional south east asia news that these long-necked villagers are being forced to stay in their villages to attract tourist dollars not for their own benefit.. as you saw with the shambles their village is in... but for local authorities to cream off them. So what responsibility do we have as tourists when we come across this? I haven't thought this one through yet... I can only say, and this is just me personally, that I don't do these types of village visits and stays because I feel it corrupts their way of life and serves to only make the local fat cats get fatter...
what views do others have?
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