doesn't that sound nice! and it was, Chiang Mai oh my, it was nice.
We did a two day, one night tramp. I'm determined to call 'tramp' to the confusion of the fellow Canadian 'trekkers', staying true to my bushwhacking kiwi roots. So there
In total we trekked, damn, tramped, for a good 5 hours in total,visited two villages, white water rafted, watched some evil nasty bugs burn in our candle and then rode an elephant and bamboo rafted.
It began with the tramp over a series of really steep hills to the first village of about 200 or so people of which we saw about ten. It was very simple with raised, thatched houses, no power, no running water, surrounded by the scars of fire stick farming and a few coffee fields. Chickens, dogs and kids (yes what a strange combo) everywhere. Had a cup of green tea and sheltered from the heat for an hour or so laughing with the kids who were all vying for our attention.
We continued further in over some steeper hills, exposed to the sun throughout as the bush is not the lush jungle I'd imagined but more like beech mixed with frangipani trees and giant bamboo. Super different to NZ forest. We made it to the village we stayed at overnight later that day - that of the 'Long Neck' tribe.
Aptly named, the Long Neck Tribe are the stunning people we've all seen on TV where women lengthen their necks and legs by way of 3/5/7 gold bands. They wear beautiful bright colours and make stunning shawls, bedspreads, cushion covers and anything else they hope you'll buy. There were about 6 women and one stunning little girl no older than 7 who were long necked.
As with as many local tribes in Thailand, and probably around the world now, they subsist largely on the tourist dollar for their crafts. It's disheartening as you go in imagining you'll have this close experience of hanging out with the locals, maybe sharing a drink (maybe poppy tea like Holly and Jas did on the same trip...damn it we didnt have this offer) or just sitting around the fire together. But in fact it was another mini craft market and the opportunity to take some photos of them, and rightly so, after a few hours they pop off to their private lives after they close up their stands. This bearing in mind their perspective that they've just come home from a day of selling craft at a local market to more tourists waiting in their village with cameras and no intention of shopping.
They were absolutely fine with photos but i only snapped off a few feeling strangely sick with embarrassment as they stared down the lens, as I was taking their photo like i would a beautiful temple or flower, not as a person that i know. i need to ponder this one.
The other thing that sat weird with me was the stark contrast of their stunning adornments and pride they took in their personal appearance verses the stark, dishevelled state of the village. There is firestick remenants everwhere, sick dogs (old and young cute pups) covered in scabies, slimy water streaming from the toilets, rubbish scattered around. The latter largely due to the tourist visits i imagine.
Anyway, it was an experience, and we had a great time in all hearing everyone elses stories around the fire, watching the fire bugs fly buy and the scary gianty flying ants getting stuck in the candel wax and melting away. The white water rafting was so much fun, and Andy was the El Capitano of our bamboo raft with the guide instead paddling behind the raft trying to tip us gals out when we were unawares. geez
I have a plethora of photos but the camera is not on hand so will try to get some up in the next few days.
One more day here then overnighting to BKK for a few days before we will be in the hands of one Miss Rachael Lowe! Can't wait!
check out the photos here!!!
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=34628&l=1e087&id=694561720
over and out
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Chiang Mai oh my
Wow - glad to be here. The longest journey so far, beating the pants off last weeks trip to Phagnan.
In short , we drove across Phagnan to the ferry back to the mainland, followed by the bus across to Surit Tani, then hopped on the train to Bangkok. This was an overnight sleeper train (comfy enough), we had a day at the weekend market in Bangkok and indulged in retail therapy. After which we caught another overnight train to Chiang Mai. PHEW ... May give into a Thai massage today. It's $200baht which works out to be around $8NZD for an hour!
Chaing Mai is up at the northern end of Thailand, inland. Its a lot cleaner than Phuket and BKK , and very lush. We found a cool hotel with a pool and nice facilities , covered in vines, french architecture, painted pink. so cute. We'll be here tonight and off on a jungle trek over night tomorrow to some remote villages, waterfalls, white water and bamboo rafting and did i mention elephants ? cool cool!!
Back on Koh Phagnan we had a crazy night on the "full moon beach" on a non full moon day, which is, you guessed, it where they have the mad ass, sex fest, bucket drinking, glow stick toting, full moon parties.
We started the night out sensibly, rationing a small amount of money each to take along which was left over from our daily budget. We heeded the warnings all over our hotel not to take valuables (particularly digital cameras) to the party. We were pretty early there, not many people yet, so decided on one bucket at $270B (we were assured this was a 'goot brice' but later discover they are about half this) and also got a Turkish hubbly bubbly with apple tobacco to sit on as we watched the festivities.
An hour later party goers streamed in, I negotiated the next bucket for almost half the original with our remaining cash . We were out of moola and desperately wanted to stay on. Oh oh.... Our drunk selves betrayed the sober and Andy ran back to the hotel to get more and .....the camera! It was such an amazing scene we couldn't resist documenting it! I stayed behind and diligently guarded the bucket and hubbly. Ironically - we took one big pan of the scene and ran out of battery. ARGH!
We continued to have 2 more buckets as the tide edged in. The 'ravers' were mad with booze, dancing on tables , screaming to the bad music, throwing up on the shore. In stark contrast the locals walked along on the tide line with torches collecting the change the tourists drop as they go frivolously mad. The party was really going by this point and we were having some excellent debates when a massive wave came in (not tsunami size but the locals likened it to it) and splashed all up Andy 's leg, wetting our camera! I freaked, yanked it out of his pocket and dried it as much as poss - it was raining too so all round bad situation with a camera with no water resistance at all!
It died that night, I felt sick with frustration at making such a dumbass call ... but luckily when we hit Bangkok it miraculously came on. phewf.
xx
In short , we drove across Phagnan to the ferry back to the mainland, followed by the bus across to Surit Tani, then hopped on the train to Bangkok. This was an overnight sleeper train (comfy enough), we had a day at the weekend market in Bangkok and indulged in retail therapy. After which we caught another overnight train to Chiang Mai. PHEW ... May give into a Thai massage today. It's $200baht which works out to be around $8NZD for an hour!
Chaing Mai is up at the northern end of Thailand, inland. Its a lot cleaner than Phuket and BKK , and very lush. We found a cool hotel with a pool and nice facilities , covered in vines, french architecture, painted pink. so cute. We'll be here tonight and off on a jungle trek over night tomorrow to some remote villages, waterfalls, white water and bamboo rafting and did i mention elephants ? cool cool!!
Back on Koh Phagnan we had a crazy night on the "full moon beach" on a non full moon day, which is, you guessed, it where they have the mad ass, sex fest, bucket drinking, glow stick toting, full moon parties.
We started the night out sensibly, rationing a small amount of money each to take along which was left over from our daily budget. We heeded the warnings all over our hotel not to take valuables (particularly digital cameras) to the party. We were pretty early there, not many people yet, so decided on one bucket at $270B (we were assured this was a 'goot brice' but later discover they are about half this) and also got a Turkish hubbly bubbly with apple tobacco to sit on as we watched the festivities.
An hour later party goers streamed in, I negotiated the next bucket for almost half the original with our remaining cash . We were out of moola and desperately wanted to stay on. Oh oh.... Our drunk selves betrayed the sober and Andy ran back to the hotel to get more and .....the camera! It was such an amazing scene we couldn't resist documenting it! I stayed behind and diligently guarded the bucket and hubbly. Ironically - we took one big pan of the scene and ran out of battery. ARGH!
We continued to have 2 more buckets as the tide edged in. The 'ravers' were mad with booze, dancing on tables , screaming to the bad music, throwing up on the shore. In stark contrast the locals walked along on the tide line with torches collecting the change the tourists drop as they go frivolously mad. The party was really going by this point and we were having some excellent debates when a massive wave came in (not tsunami size but the locals likened it to it) and splashed all up Andy 's leg, wetting our camera! I freaked, yanked it out of his pocket and dried it as much as poss - it was raining too so all round bad situation with a camera with no water resistance at all!
It died that night, I felt sick with frustration at making such a dumbass call ... but luckily when we hit Bangkok it miraculously came on. phewf.
xx
Wednesday, April 23, 2008
moving on
Koh Phanang has been fantastic. More beautiful beaches, less commercial than the other places, and lots of 'goggling' (i have goggles no snorkel hence 'goggling').
I might have mentioned we meet a Swedish couple on the night ferry here and have been thick as thieves since. They're really fun kids (...younger...), up for anything, which has so far been a lot of buckets, sea kayaking, more cards, beach lazing, and moving to the 'full moon party' side of the island to get a taste for it. There's no party on at present but it's always pretty crazy here, we shall see tonight.
Tomorrow we're catching a ferry back to the mainland and a sleeper train to Bangkok followed by another train to Chaing Mai. I feel a hotter climates coming on. We're planning on rafting and elephant trekking. woop woop.
After that we're heading into Cambodia, Andy's dying to see his lovely sister Rachael (as am i) and I'm also so excited about Angkor Watt! unreal. Stop getting ahead of yourself Emmeline!
love to all xx
I might have mentioned we meet a Swedish couple on the night ferry here and have been thick as thieves since. They're really fun kids (...younger...), up for anything, which has so far been a lot of buckets, sea kayaking, more cards, beach lazing, and moving to the 'full moon party' side of the island to get a taste for it. There's no party on at present but it's always pretty crazy here, we shall see tonight.
Tomorrow we're catching a ferry back to the mainland and a sleeper train to Bangkok followed by another train to Chaing Mai. I feel a hotter climates coming on. We're planning on rafting and elephant trekking. woop woop.
After that we're heading into Cambodia, Andy's dying to see his lovely sister Rachael (as am i) and I'm also so excited about Angkor Watt! unreal. Stop getting ahead of yourself Emmeline!
love to all xx
Sunday, April 20, 2008
New Territory - Koh Phagnan
I completed my longest back to back over land and sea journey yesterday/day....composed of a water taxi to Phi Phi town, a ferry to Krabi (3.5 hr), a mini van to Surit Thani(3hr), a over night ferry to Koh Phangan(7hr), and finally a tuk tuk to the north end of the island (short).
The overnight ferry was great, chatted with some swedes and when we were finally tuckered out we just lay down as the whole deck was carpeted with beds (check out the shot on FB), really comfortable.
I was however attacked by the mosquito militia again. Argh. Andy - nada!
Koh Phangan's stunning and quite different to Phuket and Phi Phi as its not as developed. There are not masses of power cables, 7/11's or for that matter a sealed road but they are working on that.
Spoke to a old gent on the tuk tuk who's been diving around this island on his house profit for the last 20 years(!) this morning. He said Phangan is now changing with the increase in tourism will probably grow to be like the others within 5 years. A shame but that's what happens with these beautiful places, we all want to come here, supply and demand, and with us comes convieniance. I'm glad we're seeing it as it is now.
Its also a lot cheaper - our bungalow is right on the beach, with a/c + fan for the half of what we paid in Phi Phi and less that half of Phuket! I'm loving lying on the hammock and watchuing the day go by.
Sorry Ma, we've decided to rent scooters today to check out the island, apparently there are some beautiful waterfalls nearby. We'll take it easy, promise :) ....No insurance on these either....
photos!! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=34627&l=cbc03&id=694561720
xx
The overnight ferry was great, chatted with some swedes and when we were finally tuckered out we just lay down as the whole deck was carpeted with beds (check out the shot on FB), really comfortable.
I was however attacked by the mosquito militia again. Argh. Andy - nada!
Koh Phangan's stunning and quite different to Phuket and Phi Phi as its not as developed. There are not masses of power cables, 7/11's or for that matter a sealed road but they are working on that.
Spoke to a old gent on the tuk tuk who's been diving around this island on his house profit for the last 20 years(!) this morning. He said Phangan is now changing with the increase in tourism will probably grow to be like the others within 5 years. A shame but that's what happens with these beautiful places, we all want to come here, supply and demand, and with us comes convieniance. I'm glad we're seeing it as it is now.
Its also a lot cheaper - our bungalow is right on the beach, with a/c + fan for the half of what we paid in Phi Phi and less that half of Phuket! I'm loving lying on the hammock and watchuing the day go by.
Sorry Ma, we've decided to rent scooters today to check out the island, apparently there are some beautiful waterfalls nearby. We'll take it easy, promise :) ....No insurance on these either....
photos!! http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=34627&l=cbc03&id=694561720
xx
Saturday, April 19, 2008
off to Phagnan
Sawadee!
We just got back from two nights on Ao To Koh, a snorkelers paradise on the other side of Phi Phi.
A shame we both had shark fear... Andy made it in to his waist..then turned around back to sun bathing...I however managed to the edge of the reef! It was about 60m from shore, quite the accomplishment, but as soon as I saw the dark unknown water, and heard the two guys I was with shout out, "wow, check out the barracuda..." I freaked. The worst feeling was swimming back in, blind to what was behind me, imagining the approaching Great White chasing me down, I made it...damn my over active imagination.
I tried again later at low tide , but that meant I was no longer floating above the fish but right between the coral structures in their fishy lairs. I subsequently ended up in a war with the local parrot fish. They are beautiful neon critters, but full of rage, sitting, waiting, sizing me up as I approached and then......pow! Firing at me, unfazed by my under water boxing (yes, I sank down to face them and let of a fury of underwater biffs!). Anyway, they were fearless, I think they had rabies...fish rabies.. there were too many of them, so i turned back, defeated by 10cm Thai (versions of) piranha...
The rest of our time was divided between cards, reading, swapping travel tales and advice with other travellers, and lots of beer (yes Rach - Cha CHANG). Amazing wildlife in that bay, the reef was teeming with a rainbow of tropical fish: nemos and puffer fish; blue, orange, and yellow clams; and hungry angry rabies monsters. And on land, there were so many types of lizards - some flew with flaps of skin under their arms, heaps of geckos (our friends as they killed mossies and are ridiculously cute, chirping all night), snakes, and a monitor lizard. i missed out on the last two, just heard the tails, but am ok with that.
So all in all, it was pretty chilled, we made some good friends and are now heading of to Koh Phangan via ferry, bus, ferry this afternoon arriving tomorrow night. That will be an experience. Must buys some nuts.
Photos soon xx
We just got back from two nights on Ao To Koh, a snorkelers paradise on the other side of Phi Phi.
A shame we both had shark fear... Andy made it in to his waist..then turned around back to sun bathing...I however managed to the edge of the reef! It was about 60m from shore, quite the accomplishment, but as soon as I saw the dark unknown water, and heard the two guys I was with shout out, "wow, check out the barracuda..." I freaked. The worst feeling was swimming back in, blind to what was behind me, imagining the approaching Great White chasing me down, I made it...damn my over active imagination.
I tried again later at low tide , but that meant I was no longer floating above the fish but right between the coral structures in their fishy lairs. I subsequently ended up in a war with the local parrot fish. They are beautiful neon critters, but full of rage, sitting, waiting, sizing me up as I approached and then......pow! Firing at me, unfazed by my under water boxing (yes, I sank down to face them and let of a fury of underwater biffs!). Anyway, they were fearless, I think they had rabies...fish rabies.. there were too many of them, so i turned back, defeated by 10cm Thai (versions of) piranha...
The rest of our time was divided between cards, reading, swapping travel tales and advice with other travellers, and lots of beer (yes Rach - Cha CHANG). Amazing wildlife in that bay, the reef was teeming with a rainbow of tropical fish: nemos and puffer fish; blue, orange, and yellow clams; and hungry angry rabies monsters. And on land, there were so many types of lizards - some flew with flaps of skin under their arms, heaps of geckos (our friends as they killed mossies and are ridiculously cute, chirping all night), snakes, and a monitor lizard. i missed out on the last two, just heard the tails, but am ok with that.
So all in all, it was pretty chilled, we made some good friends and are now heading of to Koh Phangan via ferry, bus, ferry this afternoon arriving tomorrow night. That will be an experience. Must buys some nuts.
Photos soon xx
Thursday, April 17, 2008
beginnings!
I'm sitting in an internet cafe, sweating away in 35+ heat at 8.45pm on Phi Phi Island after a day of snorkeling, kayaking and swimming. There's a lot of laughing and shouting going on, caged birds chirping, and bikes ringing as they squeeze through the streams of people behind me.
The air smells of fresh rice, fish sauce, and night flowers...and I've added to it the tourista smell of insect repellent. It's necessary, I was massacred two nights ago by an army of mosquito's, horrific, i look like i have pocks....Andy wasn't affected at all, damn him, as he has leather tough skin. So jealous!
We had a fleeting stopover in Hong Kong, we headed to town, had noodles and a nosey and like the true backpackers we are, slept over in the airport. Surprisingly bearable when you're jet lagged and exhausted!
We then moved onto Kata, in Phuket, which was, as always, very beautiful and chilled for the two days we had there....apart from the first day when we arrived on Songkran, Thai new years!! It was a full on, island wide, water fight! Everyone was out on the streets with hoses, water guns, buckets, anything they could soak you with... and boy they did! A welcome reprieve in the heat and all friendly fire, sometimes followed by a talcum powdering - sort of a like tar and feathering, but felt more like a cleansing ritual for the new year than medieval torture . The timing was eerily fitting for us with the start of our year of travel.
We're now on Phi Phi, Andy's first time, my second, the beautiful island most will know from The Beach movie. The main industry here's tourism so it's very comfortable. Went to the beach they filmed it at today, its different as its not closed in, but absolutely stunning. We're leaving the main town area tomorrow for a isolated beach oin the other side of the island, Ao To Koh. Looking forward to getting off the tourist trail. Its cool but too many spending temptations, hassling from the scuba divers, suitmakers, accomodation, taxi boat and well everyone with something to sell. I will however miss the little kittens and puppies everywhere, friendly as, seemingly surviving on tourists generosity, many without owners, independant and very tame.
In a few days we'll head to new places I haven't been to before, eastern islands and then northern Thailand. Woohoo!!
more soon and photo's on facebook - Here's a link http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=33386&l=28882&id=694561720 xx
ps - Rach and Vibol - just as you predicted the food is so fricken good, its really hard to resist. i am pretty much made out of pad thai now.
pps - Haines people - please excuse the spelling and bad grammar, I know you'll notice!
The air smells of fresh rice, fish sauce, and night flowers...and I've added to it the tourista smell of insect repellent. It's necessary, I was massacred two nights ago by an army of mosquito's, horrific, i look like i have pocks....Andy wasn't affected at all, damn him, as he has leather tough skin. So jealous!
We had a fleeting stopover in Hong Kong, we headed to town, had noodles and a nosey and like the true backpackers we are, slept over in the airport. Surprisingly bearable when you're jet lagged and exhausted!
We then moved onto Kata, in Phuket, which was, as always, very beautiful and chilled for the two days we had there....apart from the first day when we arrived on Songkran, Thai new years!! It was a full on, island wide, water fight! Everyone was out on the streets with hoses, water guns, buckets, anything they could soak you with... and boy they did! A welcome reprieve in the heat and all friendly fire, sometimes followed by a talcum powdering - sort of a like tar and feathering, but felt more like a cleansing ritual for the new year than medieval torture . The timing was eerily fitting for us with the start of our year of travel.
We're now on Phi Phi, Andy's first time, my second, the beautiful island most will know from The Beach movie. The main industry here's tourism so it's very comfortable. Went to the beach they filmed it at today, its different as its not closed in, but absolutely stunning. We're leaving the main town area tomorrow for a isolated beach oin the other side of the island, Ao To Koh. Looking forward to getting off the tourist trail. Its cool but too many spending temptations, hassling from the scuba divers, suitmakers, accomodation, taxi boat and well everyone with something to sell. I will however miss the little kittens and puppies everywhere, friendly as, seemingly surviving on tourists generosity, many without owners, independant and very tame.
In a few days we'll head to new places I haven't been to before, eastern islands and then northern Thailand. Woohoo!!
more soon and photo's on facebook - Here's a link http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=33386&l=28882&id=694561720 xx
ps - Rach and Vibol - just as you predicted the food is so fricken good, its really hard to resist. i am pretty much made out of pad thai now.
pps - Haines people - please excuse the spelling and bad grammar, I know you'll notice!
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